What the hell is Kamakhya you might ask? Many will know, but surprisingly even many of the Indians down here in the south don't know what it is. They are more strict Hindus, not the Tantrik types that embrace a more open stance on things down here. More uptight? Maybe but just different is what I'd say.
There is a story of Shiva and his first wife Sati, who's father did not approve of her marriage to Shiva since he wasn't a proper god, he hung out with everyone, ghouls goblins, non-Brahmins and such. My kind of guy, not judgmental lol. So he did not invite his own daughter and her spouse to a homa he was doing, she found out and found out why and so went there and basically immolated herself, burned herself alive, in retribution. So Shiva feels this, rushes there and takes her dead body over his shoulder and as he mourned pounced around the north for thousands of years. He was not doing his duty at this time of destroying things when it was needed and so Vishnu decided to help rid him of this burden and slowly began chopping pieces of her body off, a bit at a time, so that one would fall one place, one would fall another and eventually Shiva was alone again. What he did then is for another tale, but in each place where one of her body parts fell was erected a temple to a version of the goddess embodied by whatever part fell there. These temples are called Shakti peeths, or peetham. An area where great power of the goddess is housed.
So in the area then called Kamarupa is where her Yoni fell. If you don't know the word yoni please just google it. The yoni being the seat of creation and power for Shakti, both physically and energetically. And this area is called Kamakhya, in the state of Assam, in the beautiful, rolling Nilachal hills. Amazing place, you have to go.
I've been interested in the goddess for many years and when you read anything about her you will eventually run across the name Kamakhya somewhere. So I did, about 5 times before I looked it up, did a little research and found all the above out.
Ok, so why does a gay man want to go to a yoni? Not the right question. Being gay has nothing to do with anything, the goddess chose me to be her disciple, I did not choose, so I go where she calls me. I planned twice to go before but never went through with it finding excuses. This time one of the students here who went on all of my Devi temple tours was interested and she gets it, has the right energy to go, so we went together and damn, it was the right choice.
We arrived Thursday night last week and immediately met with a priest of the order that began here, Kula Marga Tantra. He and his wife are lovely people and are trying to preserve all information about the goddesses worshipped here, all Sanskrit texts around these things and more. They told us some things then sent us up to our hotel which is right next to the main temple itself. So we walk up and see the area, omg, so beautiful. Then the stairs start, even more beautiful. We pass a Kali Mandir, my ishta devata! So stopped, then a Tara Peeth, then passed the main temple, stopped were awestruck by the energy and the feelings coming up from this place.
We eventually pulled ourselves away, decided to unload our stuff at the hotel then go right back to the temple and check it out. We were there an hour. Not inside, that was closed, but the outside and all the people worshipping, sitting and chanting, doing parikrama around the building, etc. It was just amazing. But the most important thing was the energy, I can still feel it in me and I've been back two days now.
We eventually went back, showered and went to sleep. We'd been travelling all day long, but the energy didn't allow too much sleep for me anyway.
Next day we had breakfast, got ready, walked around, then decided, oh we have to go inside. The line starts at 5:30am but the doors open at 7am, so you can imagine the size of the line that was already there. Luckily there is a pay line that is shorter, and when I say shorter it still took us 2 hours to go through. The other line is kilometres long and takes hours upon hours after they close it to get everyone through.
So we waited for about 5 minutes before they opened our gate and we started the journey. So once you finally get inside the gate there is a a winding line through a room, which happens a few more times. Each time you move closer to the yoni you feel like you are moving deeper into the womb to be birthed. It's very dark and very packed with people, but full of so much energy that you don't know if you can handle it. So you take a deep breath and relax your muscles, allowing it to move through you. Once you finally get to the stairs to move down right to the yoni, and the spring that is perpetually pouring over it you can feel all emotions, all sensations, in the body, it's quite overwhelming and without my yoga practice don't know if I would have been able to handle it. But I did and allowing it to wash through me created some transformation, and that is what I cannot explain here, or in words just yet.
After you come out there is three times to walk around the temple and then we were in such a daze that I don't even know what we did. I do remember that much of the rest of the day we spent visiting the other ten temples in and around the compound. They are for the Ten Mahavidyas, all fierce versions of the goddess for which there are many different stories out there of how they came into being. But they are all very powerful places in their own right. We went to the last two the next morning because they are a bit further away and so we took a cab.
Most of the rest of that day is a blur, and the next day also. We shopped a little bit, but mostly ate, and visited temples. Eating lunch at the Chinnamasta is a treat, amazing food, do this if you can if you ever visit.
Anyhow, I can't say a whole lot more. To see pics or videos check out my Instagram or Facebook, there are tons, but they don't do the place justice. It is just so gorgeous there. I will go back, and am now thinking about checking with the hotel if they have a conference room where I could take some Ashtanga practitioners, have a space for morning practice, guide them around a little but but mostly allow them to just experience the place and the temple while facilitating the practice for them.
I cannot imagine not going back to this place, it is in my soul now. It will be there forever, but to visit and see what experience She brings to me each time I go will be interesting, and now will be a part of my future, and is a part of me in the present.